Can 50 Year Olds Learn to Surf

Seniors start surfing

When teaching Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA, I get all ages from 8 to 70 years old. Seniors can start surfing if they are used to physical activity. So many people are filling their bucket lists. People see surf movies or have watched them all their life and say some day, I have to do that.

As Crowley and Lodge say in their book Younger Next Year, age is functional not chronological. Everyone over 30 should read it. I have adults with the same difficulties for surfing after 30 years old.

The first notable difficulty is every one is a bit stiff from not stretching. Stretching is important for everything in life. One test is putting your palms on the floor without bending your knees. You need to stretch your hamstrings, lower back and buttocks. All get stiff from sitting and from doing exercises without warm up or warm down stretching.

The next obvious one is upper body strength. People that are over weight and have not been doing push ups are going to feel the effects when trying to do pop ups on a surf board in the water. It is more difficult than practicing pop ups in your living, though, this is the way to start. I love doing push ups on the big bouncy balls you find in the gym. Those really test your wrists, arms and shoulders.

Balance is a useful talent for most any sport. In surfing, if you can land the pop properly, you don’t need as much balance as people suspect. One exercise I treasure is my early morning yoga pose where I lift one leg in front of me and hold my toes while straightening my leg. Maybe enough of this exercise and you could exercise on the balanced beam. I am amazed by people who walk the strap they tie between two trees in the park.

Your core is important in most anything you do. People get back problems from being out of balance mostly. Muscles can pull the spinal cord when your front and back muscles are not trained. (Drs. jump in here). We naturally use our backs for lifting and most motions during the day and so we should be training our stomachs for balance support.

Stamina is a key that dooms most people when they get older. I have had people quit quickly because the first few rides into the beach already have them gasping for breath. Like most sports there is exertion and then recovery. Most people are not going to be surfing stamina trained, but recovery is important. Each time we exert, our body can have the energy reserves to do it again. Any aerobic exercise is good. I bike and try to run on the beach. Swimming, treadmills, classes, basketball, running, and even yoga are all good.

Getting in shape for surfing is preparing to live longer with a higher quality of life!!

Learning the Surfing Duck Dive

surfing duck dive

The surfing duck dive is an advanced technique for short boards.When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA, the first lesson in paddling for waves is going over the foam wave coming in. If the waves are small, you can go over them easily on a soft top board or duck the nose under the lip of the foam.

When waves are bigger, the foam is taller, and there is more power, you want to get as far under the lip as possible. The easiest was is to paddle hard, grab the front of the surfboard (short boards) and push the nose toward the ocean bottom. It will naturally hit a point where it wants to resurface and hopefully by then the wave has passed you.

A more effective duck dive is placing one knee at the back of the board and then pressing the nose down while lifting the other leg into the air so it might remain above the water for a second. This applies more pressure to sink the board. Many surfers will put a foot to the rear of the board to get even more pressure to dive.

Sometimes if a big wave is going to crash on me and I don’t have time to duck dive or if it would be inconsequential, I will just turn turtle and point the nose of the board up through the wave while I remain under the board. This minimizes the resistance of the board.

When I don’t have to duck dive, I will just push the nose of the board under the oncoming foam. Depending on the height of the foam and the power of the wave, most of us will look for the process that consumes the least energy.

*

For Oceanside Surf Lessons Calif, see the Landing Page

See a  My Dry Land Surf Lesson and in Water Demonstration,

Wistia video thumbnail

I also have a video on doing the 4 different kinds of pop ups you can use to get up on the board in the water. Necessary if you are going to learn without a surf lesson.  See this video

Wistia video thumbnail

4 Things Beginners Learn in First Surf Lesson

beginner surfers learn

When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA I have the fun of introducing students not just to surfing, but to the ocean. The ocean is powerful and intimidating. On even small surf days, new students often say that the waves look big. We begin by riding foam waves that break near the beach to make learning the fundamentals easier.

One of the first things students learn is how to handle their bodies and the surf board in the waves. There is a big comfort zone that is reached when we can dissipate the intimidation by learning how to paddle into and absorb wave power. I am as thrilled by seeing students paddle and brave waves as almost anything else. Its a milestone.

Secondly students learn they need to be in better physical condition to fully enjoy and last in surfing sessions. Even marines learn that their training is not the same as surfing. Push ups, stretching, and cardio are three immediate needs. Students should also practice proper pop ups in their living room.

Thirdly, students learn surfing is a precise practice. Each ride I correct what they do wrong and they realize it is piecing a lot of techniques and practices together to complete a successful ride to the beach.

Fourthly surfing is really fun and creates a great feeling of accomplishment. Most people have had surfing on their bucket list for a long time and joining the world of surfers feels like admittance to a great club. Riding on Nature’s wind fueled waves is also more amazing than riding down a snow pack or skateboarding on a sidewalk. Surfing is combining a simple tool and physical effort to meet Nature in her own park.

*

Wistia video thumbnail

I also have a video on doing the 4 different kinds of pop ups you can use to get up on the board in the water. Necessary if you are going to learn without a surf lesson.  See the Teaser clip of this video

Wistia video thumbnail

Leading Surfing Short Board Techniques

short board techniques

Many of my Oceanside Surf Lesson CA students want to move to shorter boards as soon as possible. Most don’t realize the slow progression through the short board techniques begin with mastering the high volume board techniques.  

The short board is by nature less stable than a higher volume long board or beginner soft top. Smart surfers stay with more width and thickness as they get progressively shorter boards to create a hybrid of values and make short board surfing easier. The first thing one notices with lower volume boards is the paddling is more difficult and you move slower. This makes it more tiring and harder to get in front of waves.

A major difference in short boarding and long boarding created by lower volume is where you have to catch the wave. The long boarder in waves that are not steep, can catch a wave as it starts to show or on small wave days, anyplace along the arc. A short boarder needs a high arc and lip to power the lower volume. Therefore the short boarder has to paddle in front of the wave so it comes under him, but not so far he is in the impact zone.

The first technique a short boarder needs is acceleration. Short boarders don’t really trim like long boarders. They pump to stay ahead of the lip. They move the front foot on the nose up and down the wave for speed.

A second technique a short boarder needs is bottom turns. They can drop down a steep face without as much worry about pearling, but need to get into the pocket to ride the unfurling wave. The bottom turn is rotating the upper body in the direction of travel with a little pressure on the toes or heels on the rail in the wave face.

The bottom turn also takes the short boarder up the wave face to perform any trick or maneuver. The cut back is a common maneuver in the short board arsenal which is reversing the rotation of the body back towards the lip to gain power, to stall waiting for the lip, to position to get into a barrel, or for style.

Ripping the lip combines a bottom turn and a cutback at the top of the lip to ride up and then down the wave. A lot of short boarders use the hand of the leading foot to point or throw in the direction they want to travel on the rip.

These will get you started and include what you will always practice.

*

Your Surf Board Should Match Your Skills

Which Surf Board to Use

surf board

When students learn how to surf in my Oceanside Surf Lessons, they learn on a high volume board so the new techniques they learn are not hindered by the surf board.  New students think surfing will be as easy as it looks. Film is quite deceiving in that experts with years of experience and in top “surf” condition seduce people to start. I am not complaining, but in lessons the reality becomes apparent.

Surfing is a serious sport that requires skill building, conditioning, dedication, practice, and heaps of courage. Other than football, few sports can trash beginners like the ocean. The problem for beginners is they have to learn the hard way through the experience of hard knocks. We soon learn to avoid the impacts.

Students would be happier to utilize the board that supports their conditioning and skills. This keeps it fun. You can learn on most any board. Staying on the soft tops for a good period of time acquaints one with techniques, the waves, safety, and stamina.

Anyone finds their first day tiring. How much physical conditioning you pledge is a function of your ambitions and anticipated rate of growth. Learning techniques is a function of study time and practice. Its good to read books, watch videos, and real surfers in the water. Each time you learn something, you can see more when you observe.

Moving down in board size should not be as big an objective as being fit and skilled.

*

Learn surfing in Oceanside Surf Lessons

This is a good video on Learning How to Surf

When to Start Surfing a Short Board

Surfing the Short Board

surfing the short board

New students often want to surf the short board, but in Oceanside Surf Lessons they start with 8′ or 9′ soft tops. These have high volume in length, width, and thickness. Many new surfers dream of the day they can start riding shorter boards.

One should be careful what you wish for. The only thing that is promised with shorter boards is more difficulty paddling, catching waves, and standing up. It is best to move slowly. This begins with mastering techniques on the soft top.

You can ride certainly up to a 7′ wave on a soft top as I see it every year in Oceanside. The advanced surfers also rip the lip, do aerials, and 360s.

So what is the advantage of surfing the short board? The first two are duck diving if you are on a sand bar beach and less pearling on steeper waves. Oceanside is a sand bar beach and has lots of steep waves. A reef would have less of both issues. In order to minimize the disadvantages of a short board, it is smart to drop 6″ inches of length at a time and maintain width and thickness.

If you are in the water a few times a week, you should be able to hit the technical short board size of 6’10” within six months to a year. Now, surfers are riding high volume short boards (big width and thickness) in the form of the fish and many other shapes. I see older surfers that have been surfing all their lives keep the short boards but add width and thickness because of the age factor and also because they may be week end warriors or just a few times a month warriors.

The idea is to maintain the fun, not just to reach the status that goes with owning a short board.

*

Learn to surf with Oceanside Surf Lessons

This is a great tutorial on catching real waves https://youtu.be/N7KopjbzxjE

Paddling a Crucial Skill for Surfers

Surf Paddling is a Core Technique for Surf Progress

surf paddling

When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside USA, I get students of every physical condition. Even the extremely fit find surf paddling tiring. For one, it uses specific muscles that doesn’t quite replicate the swimming experience. Those who infrequently exercise their upper bodies, find paddling is the first thing that goes.

The thing is, students don’t realize that the paddling what is hurting their pop ups. I spot it right away. Paddling creates a fatigue that results in total body fatigue. I often know my session is over when I miss an easy pop up. I know it is paddling fatigue. Work at the gym can help. I do a lot of cable work where I pull the cables toward my body.

We need our upper body for doing pop ups as well. Push ups help and so do bench presses. Practicing pop ups is the best.

The third thing surfers need for surf paddling is stamina or recovery. Any aerobics makes you better.

It goes without saying, that in most sports we need to be stretched. The pop up requires flexibility to touch the ground with the palms of your hands without bending your knees. Stretching your upper body might prevent tweaks after falling.

*

Learn how to surf with Oceanside Surf Lessons

Dry land and water demonstration of basic techniques.

Surfing Difficult without Lessons

The Value of Surf Lessons

I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside USA and not to toot my own horn, but most of my students are happy they took lessons before starting out on this venture. Lots of people who say they were going to try on their own say they are glad they didn’t. Many who tried and found it frustrating to learn, decided they better begin with a few instructions. 

Surfing is more technical than people realize. It looks easy the way experts pop up on a wave and carve beautiful maneuvers. Anyone who watches snowboards in the half pipes might think snowboarding looks easy. Two things have to happen with both: Your techniques lead to courage, it takes years to master both where you are performing like those you see on film.

Catching Waves for Beginners

Most beginners have no idea how to catch a wave. It seems simple. The timing in leading the wave, catching it, and then timing the pop up is the first obstacle new people can’t get on their own. In surf lessons, I don’t introduce catching waves until students can paddle after me pushing them into the wave and then do a pop up and ride to the beach. This takes a half hour for most students.

Once students have learned to pop up and catch their own waves, they have a great time in their new found freedom. Now they can catch the waves and apply the techniques to their new adventure. One hour of learning how to do it can save months of trial and error or the frustration that causes people to quit.

*

For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page

A good video for learning how to surf

Fear is a Part of Learning to Surf

Fear in surfing is common from the first day beginner to professionals.

What is Fear in Surfing

For beginners, the ocean is intimidating. Its one thing to go in for a swim and body surf some waves and another to use a surf board that can toss you unexpectedly.

In my Oceanside surf lessons, one boy student I had was trembling on the beach during the dry land lesson. I thought he wouldn’t last after the first wave he paddled. Pretty soon he noticed the beginner foam waves just going by him without ill effects. Then he became fearless and rode waves.

One of the most important aspects for new surfers is to be comfortable in the ocean. Most students not only get comfortable, they learn to love being in the water.

As beginners progress and want to ride real waves, it seems the only way to learn is the hard way. It takes get worked to learn what to do and not to do. Even the pros look back and say they were fearful each bigger wave level they attempted.

Surfers don’t lose fear, they learn to manage it.

What is Your Own Level of Fear Tolerance?

fear in surfing

Everyone has a different tolerance for fear often depending on what they have tried before. When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside, we begin riding foam waves that are never above chest level. Any deeper and I can’t push people into the waves. 

Yet, a big obstacle is often getting people to stand up on the moving board on the count of four. Students have all sorts of hold backs because they are afraid to fall of the surf board. Sometimes they put a knee on the board first instead of popping up on both feet. They often, don’t want to pop up and let go of the security of the board.

Faith in the system I teach, courage in the face of falling off the board, and a willingness to abandon thinking in following the process are each important. The processes taught in the dry land lesson will lead to muscle memory of all steps.

Once students have learned in foam waves, they can proceed to paddle out to bigger foam waves and real waves. Fear is a constant companion in surfing. Professionals have fear. One said that the size of waves can be measured in increments of fear. We learn to manage fear in surfing which may be one of the more valuable attributes.

You can really get worked by waves as you progress, but if you have unmanageable fear, you won’t progress nor even like the sport.

*

For surf lessons in Oceanside, see the Home Page

See my Youtube Pop Up Video for beginner instructions

2 Ways to Get into the Surfing Pocket

Getting into the Pocket of a Real Wave

pocket of a real wave

When I teach new surfers in Oceanside Surf Lessons USA, we begin riding foam waves straight to the beach. The most important aspect is learning to pop up and ride balanced on the board. The board is designed to go straight when you are in the right posture and then you can learn to carve. 

There are two ways to get into the pocket of a real wave where the real surfing is accomplished. If waves are not too steep, you point your board toward the pocket while catching the wave. This is often called angling for a wave.

If the wave is steep, you have to ride down the face and then bottom turn into the pocket. A bottom turn is accomplished by pressuring the toes in the direction of the turn and rotating the upper body in the same direction.

When You Learn How To Surf

The first techniques learned in beginning surfing are balance on the board while paddling, catching foam waves, and standing up on the board.

The real surfing begins with riding real waves and the most important technique for short boards is accelerating. This increases the speed of the board to stay ahead of the lip, do maneuvers, and to reverse direction back to the power. Acclerating is the first principal of riding the pocket on  a short board.

This is accomplished by pushing the front foot on the nose up and down the face so that the board weights and unweights. Once speed is attained, the board will stay ahead of the falling lip and is set up for a maneuver.

Long boarders like to just drive the pocket by getting in the right spot on the board to maintain speed. Short boarders accelerate and then after three pumps can do a cut back or ride up the face. Once the pocket runs out of power, you can cut back to the lip to regain power or turn toward the beach and pump until the wave reforms into another wave.

*

For Oceanside surf lessons, see the Home Page

This is a great tutorial on catching real waves https://youtu.be/N7KopjbzxjE