Wave Timing in Catching Real Waves
When I teach students how to surf in Oceanside Surf Lessons USA, beginner surfers have trouble learning wave timing. There are three steps for which you need timing.
You need to lay on the board way before the foam wave arrives. Beginners should not start with real waves, but the foam wave after the real wave has broken near shore. The surfer needs to be on the board and paddling before the wave arrives. Many beginners treat the surf board like a boogie board and hop on when the wave is a few feet away. This will cause the board to get swamped most of the time.
Beginners wonder when to start their pop up. They often jump on the board as soon as the wave hits the board. This is too soon. You need to paddle before the wave arrives and when it hits the board, continue paddling a few strokes until the surf board is in front of the wave.
Beginner surfers wonder when to stand up. The big problem they encounter is jumping up on the board as soon as the wave hits the board. They should paddle until the board is in front of the wave. Then when the board is going straight and riding level, put their hands on the board under their chest in a man’s push up position. At this point, which I call the transition, they should then move smoothly into the stand up position.
I give students a cadence to count out loud. Paddling until you are in front of the wave is one. Putting your hands on the board is two. Bringing the front foot up into the proper spot is three. Standing with your body facing the beach is four.
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