Mark, Author at Surf Lessons in Oceanside

How to Overcome Fear on Bigger Surfing Waves

One key to over coming fear of bigger surfing waves is not to jump up in class too fast. We can’t go from riding 4′ waves to riding 8′ waves.

When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside, we learn the fundamentals on foam waves. There is a reason. There is no reason to go to bigger waves or shorter boards until you have mastered each step. You should practice the pop up on smaller waves until it is accurate, stable, and in muscle memory.

Once the pop up is mastered and you don’t fall off small foam waves, start with bigger foam waves and then real waves. We often start with real waves by catching the corners and then moving to the apex where the power resides. Real key in having confidence in catching real waves is being able to escape close outs. We practice our bottom turns to get into the pocket on real waves and then to escape over the top of close outs.

The fear of surfing bigger surfing waves is stemmed by great conditioning. Being confident in our stamina is important. Surfing is tiring. We don’t want to tackle bigger waves if we are not full of energy to handle big dunkings. I never want to be in the position of being too tired to fight for my life or at least a long hold down in a big wave. A big wave has different meanings and sizes for each of us.

We have to have confidence in our wave catching ability. The proper technique is getting in front of the wave and letting it come under you. If you paddle over the top of waves chasing them, you are going to get caught in close outs often. You have to paddle in front which requires timing and positioning and, of course, experience. Start on smaller waves to get in front and allowing waves to arc over your head (short boards). Then it should only require a couple of paddles to get down the face and pop up.

Watch the wave at all times to know what it is doing. Many times I might change the direction I will travel. I might realize I have to go down the face or maybe I can angle into the pocket immediately. The bigger the wave, the more you are forced to first ride the face and then carve into the pocket.

Key is being able to ride square on the board with your hips and shoulders facing forward. If you pop up with your butt over the rail, as i call it, and a hand trailing instead of both being in front, you are going to be off balance quickly. Your shoulders have to be square facing the front. If you are going to grab a rail immediately and dive into the pocket on a close out, you will have your butt into the wave face to hold an edge.

Practicing on inside waves that are steeper and faster is good practice. You always need to maintain good form, be smooth, and land accurately.

For Surf Lessons in Oceanside, visit the Home Page

Catching Waves on the Surfers Short Board

Catching Waves on the Short Board

In films we usually see surfers catching waves on short boards. It takes years to be an expert. When I teach students how to surf , they start on high volume surf boards. They learn to paddle before the wave arrives. On short boards, surfers learn to let the real wave come under the board.

On a short board the lower volume makes everything more difficult and advanced. The timing for catching waves on a short board is compounded by the need for a high arc on the wave and the need to paddle hard on a low volume board. The best way to assist all three difficulties is to get in front of the wave as it arcs so that it comes under the board.

There are usually two choices in catching a wave on a short board. Paddle down the face and bottom turn into the pocket or angle immediately towards the pocket.

The power of the wave is in the top one third, so if waves are not too steep, riding on the top increases speed. Otherwise, in the pocket surfers accelerate by moving the nose of the board up and down the wave. The board is fastest when the rail and the wave are at a 90 degree angle. So dropping down into the bottom of the wave decreases this angle and the board is not as fast.

When we catch the wave, riding at the top or where the board is at a 90 degree angle to the face is where the board travels fastest. Getting to this position is achieved by angling immediately or bottom turning soon and riding back up the face.

Catch Waves Near the Apex

Catching the wave at the apex or where the foam first comes over the lip not only gives us the right of way on the wave, but the steep pitch has the most power and the steepness gives us the most speed. It might take building courage to get to the most advantageous spot on catching the wave, but that has to be our goal.

In catching bigger waves for the first time, surfers often head for the corner where the wave is not as steep and then build the courage to move closer to the apex.

This is a good video on how to catch waves

Learn how to surf with Oceanside Surf Lessons

Beginner Surfers Learn to Time Waves

Wave Timing in Catching Real Waves

When I teach students how to surf in Oceanside Surf Lessons USA, beginner surfers have trouble learning wave timing. There are three steps for which you need timing.

You need to lay on the board way before the foam wave arrives. Beginners should not start with real waves, but the foam wave after the real wave has broken near shore. The surfer needs to be on the board and paddling before the wave arrives. Many beginners treat the surf board like a boogie board and hop on when the wave is a few feet away. This will cause the board to get swamped most of the time.

Beginners wonder when to start their pop up. They often jump on the board as soon as the wave hits the board. This is too soon. You need to paddle before the wave arrives and when it hits the board, continue paddling a few strokes until the surf board is in front of the wave.

Beginner surfers wonder when to stand up. The big problem they encounter is jumping up on the board as soon as the wave hits the board. They should paddle until the board is in front of the wave. Then when the board is going straight and riding level, put their hands on the board under their chest in a man’s push up position. At this point, which I call the transition, they should then move smoothly into the stand up position.

I give students a cadence to count out loud. Paddling until you are in front of the wave is one. Putting your hands on the board is two. Bringing the front foot up into the proper spot is three. Standing with your body facing the beach is four.

Learn surfing in Oceanside Surf Lessons

See a dry land and water beginner demonstration https://markap12.wistia.com/medias/802fhfkzy9

Buying the Most Fun Surfboard

What is the Fun Surf Board

The fun surf board is the best step down after learning the basics on soft top surf boards. It is a length between 6’10” and 9′. It could be called a mini-long just like the 8′ soft tops beginners used.

It is usually a hard board and retains the width and thickness of big boards while reducing the length. The idea of going to a short board is to reduce length 6″ at a time but maintain the thickness of 2 3/4″ and width of 21+” as long as necessary.

Having Fun

Hardly anything is more important in surfing than having fun. One of the best comments my surf students can make in Oceanside Surf Lessons USA is this is really fun. They often say it before they are successfully riding the surf board to the beach.

fun surf board — Paddle in front of the wave

Sustaining the fun is usually a function of maintaining the right surf board for your skill, size, and athleticism. The short boards you see riders rip in the movies are by advanced athletes in extreme surf shape. This means flexibility, upper body strength, usually leanness, and well schooled in techniques.

Surf Progress is Slow and Board Shortening Should be the Same

Surfing skills and athleticism progress slowly. One thing you do not want hindering your progress with techniques is riding a board that is too advanced. The higher volume boards (length x width x thickness) make ever phase of surfing easier. 1>They are easier to paddle so that you last longer, 2> catch waves easier before they arc, and are 3> easier to ride.

You can’t underestimate the value of those three aspects. Without anyone of them, surfing becomes a struggle and work. As you get stronger you can last longer to learn longer. You can paddle faster so you could move to a smaller board. As you practice more, you start to master techniques which would allow you to ride a less stable (shorter) board.

The older guys and the smart people want to have as many rides as possible and have as much fun in process that is possible. The board is not just a show piece, it is the ticket to the kind of enjoyment you will experience.

To learn how to surf take surf lessons in Oceanside

Good YouTube video on how to surf

Paddling as a Difficulty for Beginner Surfers

Surf Paddling is a Core Technique for Surf Progress

When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside USA, I get students of every physical condition. Even the extremely fit find surf paddling tiring. For one, it uses specific muscles that doesn’t quite replicate the swimming experience. Those who infrequently exercise their upper bodies, find paddling is the first thing that goes.

The thing is, students don’t realize that the paddling what is hurting their pop ups. I spot it right away. Paddling creates a fatigue that results in total body fatigue. I often know my session is over when I miss an easy pop up. I know it is paddling fatigue. Work at the gym can help. I do a lot of cable work where I pull the cables toward my body.

We need our upper body for doing pop ups as well. Push ups help and so do bench presses. Practicing pop ups is the best.

The third thing surfers need for surf paddling is stamina or recovery. Any aerobics makes you better.

It goes without saying, that in most sports we need to be stretched. The pop up requires flexibility to touch the ground with the palms of your hands without bending your knees. Stretching your upper body might prevent tweaks after falling.

Learn how to surf with Oceanside Surf Lessons

Dry land and water demonstration of basic techniques.

Can 50 Year Olds Learn to Surf

When teaching Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA, I get all ages from 8 to 70 years old. Seniors can start surfing if they are used to physical activity. So many people are filling their bucket lists. People see surf movies or have watched them all their life and say some day, I have to do that.

As Crowley and Lodge say in their book Younger Next Year, age is functional not chronological. Everyone over 30 should read it. I have adults with the same difficulties for surfing after 30 years old.

The first notable difficulty is every one is a bit stiff from not stretching. Stretching is important for everything in life. One test is putting your palms on the floor without bending your knees. You need to stretch your hamstrings, lower back and buttocks. All get stiff from sitting and from doing exercises without warm up or warm down stretching.

The next obvious one is upper body strength. People that are over weight and have not been doing push ups are going to feel the effects when trying to do pop ups on a surf board in the water. It is more difficult than practicing pop ups in your living, though, this is the way to start. I love doing push ups on the big bouncy balls you find in the gym. Those really test your wrists, arms and shoulders.

Balance is a useful talent for most any sport. In surfing, if you can land the pop properly, you don’t need as much balance as people suspect. One exercise I treasure is my early morning yoga pose where I lift one leg in front of me and hold my toes while straightening my leg. Maybe enough of this exercise and you could exercise on the balanced beam. I am amazed by people who walk the strap they tie between two trees in the park.

Your core is important in most anything you do. People get back problems from being out of balance mostly. Muscles can pull the spinal cord when your front and back muscles are not trained. (Drs. jump in here). We naturally use our backs for lifting and most motions during the day and so we should be training our stomachs for balance support.

Stamina is a key that dooms most people when they get older. I have had people quit quickly because the first few rides into the beach already have them gasping for breath. Like most sports there is exertion and then recovery. Most people are not going to be surfing stamina trained, but recovery is important. Each time we exert, our body can have the energy reserves to do it again. Any aerobic exercise is good. I bike and try to run on the beach. Swimming, treadmills, classes, basketball, running, and even yoga are all good.

Getting in shape for surfing is preparing to live longer with a higher quality of life!!

Learning the Surfing Duck Dive

The surfing duck dive is an advanced technique for short boards.When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA, the first lesson in paddling for waves is going over the foam wave coming in. If the waves are small, you can go over them easily on a soft top board or duck the nose under the lip of the foam.

When waves are bigger, the foam is taller, and there is more power, you want to get as far under the lip as possible. The easiest was is to paddle hard, grab the front of the surfboard (short boards) and push the nose toward the ocean bottom. It will naturally hit a point where it wants to resurface and hopefully by then the wave has passed you.

A more effective duck dive is placing one knee at the back of the board and then pressing the nose down while lifting the other leg into the air so it might remain above the water for a second. This applies more pressure to sink the board. Many surfers will put a foot to the rear of the board to get even more pressure to dive.

Sometimes if a big wave is going to crash on me and I don’t have time to duck dive or if it would be inconsequential, I will just turn turtle and point the nose of the board up through the wave while I remain under the board. This minimizes the resistance of the board.

When I don’t have to duck dive, I will just push the nose of the board under the oncoming foam. Depending on the height of the foam and the power of the wave, most of us will look for the process that consumes the least energy.

For Oceanside Surf Lessons Calif, see the Landing Page

See a My Dry Land Surf Lesson and in Water Demonstration,

I also have a video on doing the 4 different kinds of pop ups you can use to get up on the board in the water. Necessary if you are going to learn without a surf lesson. See this video

4 Things Beginners Learn in First Surf Lesson

When I teach Surf Lessons in Oceanside CA I have the fun of introducing students not just to surfing, but to the ocean. The ocean is powerful and intimidating. On even small surf days, new students often say that the waves look big. We begin by riding foam waves that break near the beach to make learning the fundamentals easier.

One of the first things students learn is how to handle their bodies and the surf board in the waves. There is a big comfort zone that is reached when we can dissipate the intimidation by learning how to paddle into and absorb wave power. I am as thrilled by seeing students paddle and brave waves as almost anything else. Its a milestone.

Secondly students learn they need to be in better physical condition to fully enjoy and last in surfing sessions. Even marines learn that their training is not the same as surfing. Push ups, stretching, and cardio are three immediate needs. Students should also practice proper pop ups in their living room.

Thirdly, students learn surfing is a precise practice. Each ride I correct what they do wrong and they realize it is piecing a lot of techniques and practices together to complete a successful ride to the beach.

Fourthly surfing is really fun and creates a great feeling of accomplishment. Most people have had surfing on their bucket list for a long time and joining the world of surfers feels like admittance to a great club. Riding on Nature’s wind fueled waves is also more amazing than riding down a snow pack or skateboarding on a sidewalk. Surfing is combining a simple tool and physical effort to meet Nature in her own park.

I also have a video on doing the 4 different kinds of pop ups you can use to get up on the board in the water. Necessary if you are going to learn without a surf lesson. See the Teaser clip of this video

Leading Surfing Short Board Techniques

Many of my Oceanside Surf Lesson CA students want to move to shorter boards as soon as possible. Most don’t realize the slow progression through the short board techniques begin with mastering the high volume board techniques.

The short board is by nature less stable than a higher volume long board or beginner soft top. Smart surfers stay with more width and thickness as they get progressively shorter boards to create a hybrid of values and make short board surfing easier. The first thing one notices with lower volume boards is the paddling is more difficult and you move slower. This makes it more tiring and harder to get in front of waves.

A major difference in short boarding and long boarding created by lower volume is where you have to catch the wave. The long boarder in waves that are not steep, can catch a wave as it starts to show or on small wave days, anyplace along the arc. A short boarder needs a high arc and lip to power the lower volume. Therefore the short boarder has to paddle in front of the wave so it comes under him, but not so far he is in the impact zone.

The first technique a short boarder needs is acceleration. Short boarders don’t really trim like long boarders. They pump to stay ahead of the lip. They move the front foot on the nose up and down the wave for speed.

A second technique a short boarder needs is bottom turns. They can drop down a steep face without as much worry about pearling, but need to get into the pocket to ride the unfurling wave. The bottom turn is rotating the upper body in the direction of travel with a little pressure on the toes or heels on the rail in the wave face.

The bottom turn also takes the short boarder up the wave face to perform any trick or maneuver. The cut back is a common maneuver in the short board arsenal which is reversing the rotation of the body back towards the lip to gain power, to stall waiting for the lip, to position to get into a barrel, or for style.

Ripping the lip combines a bottom turn and a cutback at the top of the lip to ride up and then down the wave. A lot of short boarders use the hand of the leading foot to point or throw in the direction they want to travel on the rip.

These will get you started and include what you will always practice.

Your Surf Board Should Match Your Skills

Which Surf Board to Use

When students learn how to surf in my Oceanside Surf Lessons, they learn on a high volume board so the new techniques they learn are not hindered by the surf board. New students think surfing will be as easy as it looks. Film is quite deceiving in that experts with years of experience and in top “surf” condition seduce people to start. I am not complaining, but in lessons the reality becomes apparent.

Surfing is a serious sport that requires skill building, conditioning, dedication, practice, and heaps of courage. Other than football, few sports can trash beginners like the ocean. The problem for beginners is they have to learn the hard way through the experience of hard knocks. We soon learn to avoid the impacts.

Students would be happier to utilize the board that supports their conditioning and skills. This keeps it fun. You can learn on most any board. Staying on the soft tops for a good period of time acquaints one with techniques, the waves, safety, and stamina.

Anyone finds their first day tiring. How much physical conditioning you pledge is a function of your ambitions and anticipated rate of growth. Learning techniques is a function of study time and practice. Its good to read books, watch videos, and real surfers in the water. Each time you learn something, you can see more when you observe.

Moving down in board size should not be as big an objective as being fit and skilled.

Learn surfing in Oceanside Surf Lessons

This is a good video on Learning How to Surf